South Korea

“The best things in Seoul are on the fourth floor, behind an unmarked door.”

Two trips, both spent largely in Euljiro, where metal shops, printers and paper merchants sit stacked in buildings with no signage at street level. What we bring back tends to be flat, quiet and unshowy — anodised trays, hanji paper, a porcelain vase with a lip you only notice when you pour from it.